There’s no longer a gigantic queue to the world’ most famous fast food restaurant. Neither do you have to wait so long to meet Lenin. Besides, the word is that he’s about to leave his mausoleum. The ‘Worker and Kolkhoz Member’, a 43m logo of Mosfilm (the USSR’s Hollywood), is also vacating its place at the Exhibition of the Achievements of the National Economy. Moscow has changed. There’s no longer the Ostankino Tower viewing platform, and there are no more tales of permits to take the lift up there, or of the coffee one could drink at the ‘Seventh Heaven’ restaurant 337m up only after ordering it beforehand down at ground level. Even the red walls of the Kremlin seem redder now. Between Red Square, Manezhnaya Square where a three-storey leisure and shopping center has grown beneath the ground, and the Moscow Hotel, is carnival land. A river of people flows among the buskers, street theatres, and openair galleries. And at night Moscow enjoys itself on Novy Arbat, dancing and playing roulette in its casinos. And as one would guess, bets are placed on black more often then red.